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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.